Navajo & Hopi Nations: 

First Nations tourism in the Southwest

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: Arizona

A.R.S. 2019  §§ 13-3821 through 13-3829, 13-3727

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

Visitors must register if staying for more than 72 hours excluding weekends & holidays (per statute). §13-3821(A). SOR office refused to answer whether return visits allowed per month or year. “That’s determined by local sheriff.” NOTE: AZ SOR office defers on many questions to local county sheriffs for interpretation. Updated Aug 2024.

Initial reg. required “within 72 hours excluding weekends & holidays of entering and remaining in any county.”  §13-3821. Updated 8/2022.  Registrants working in state must report in any county where present for 14 consecutive days or an aggregate of 30 days/yr.  Address change etc. required w/in 72 hours (business days only).  §13-3822.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Residence restriction:  1,000 ft. restriction applies to Level 3 offenders. §13-3727. Local governments are pre-empted from adopting more restrictive requirements. §13-3727.

Duration & updates:

10 years to life. Transients report every 90 days.  All others annually.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: New Mexico

N.M. Stat. Ann. 2019  §§29-11A-1 through 29-11A-10

N.M.A.C. §1.18.790.157

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

5 business days for initial registration & updates. §29-11A-4.

State law requires “sex offenders” to register, which includes one who: (1) establishes a residence [not defined] in NM; (2) “stays in multiple locations in NM,” or (3) is enrolled in a NM school, or (4) is employed in NM for more than 14 days or an aggregate period exceeding 30 days in a calendar year. §29-11A-3.

Visitors:  NM State Police say: “If convicted prior to July 1, 2013 you will need to register if in the state of New Mexico for longer than ten (10) days. You will need to register within five (5) days if convicted after July 1, 2013.” §29-11A-4 says business days.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

State pre-emption: Cities, counties & other political subdivisions are prohibited from adopting any ordinance, rule, regulation, resolution or statute on sex offender registration and notification and from imposing any other restrictions on sex offenders that are not included in the state SOR Act. §29-11A-9.

Duration & updates:

10 years to life. Updates are every 6 mo. or every 90 days depending on offense. §29-11A-4.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: Utah

Utah Code Ann.  2019 §§77-41-101 through 77-41-112

Utah. Code Ann. §§77-27-21.7 through 77-27-21.9

U.A.C. §§R251-110-1 through R251-110-5

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

“Sex Offender” is defined to include any out-of-state SO who is in Utah for more than 10 days in any 12 month period. §77-41-102(17)(b).

Visitors must register “within 10 days of entering the state, regardless of the offender’s length of stay.”  §77-41-105.  

Updates required within 3 business days. §77-41-105.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Presence restriction: May not be on premises of a day care or preschool, public swimming pool, school, community park open to the public, playground that is open to the public.  Exceptions for access to schools when carrying out “necessary parental responsibilities” and day care center or preschool when in building for other purposes. 

Residence restriction: w/in 1,000 ft. of victim, with exceptions. §77-27-21.7.

“Sex Offender in Presence of Child Law:”  Registrants w/ convictions involving minors under 14 years old cannot invite the minor to accompany him or her absent parental consent, with exceptions.  §77-27-21.8.

Because “Sex Offender” is defined to include only out-of-state SO’s in Utah for more than 10 days in a 12 month period (see Registration Triggers & Deadlines at left), visitors not meeting this definition would, in theory, not be required to register & thus not subject to these restrictions during their visit. However, this theory remains untested.

Duration & updates:

Lifetime. Petition 10 years.  Updates every 6 mo. §77-41-105.

Most recent visit: October 2024

Native American nations can be fascinating places to visit, but make no mistake – you might tell yourself you are entering a sovereign nation when you cross the reservation boundary but you aren’t.  You’ll still be bound by the registry laws of whatever US state you’re in.  

Nor should you get any funny ideas if you are of native ancestry that you can somehow escape your registry status by moving to the reservation of whatever tribe you belong to.  You can’t.  As you must already realize, the oppression of the registry will follow you onto the reservation whether you’re a visitor or become a resident.  That’s why I have placed the registry laws of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah at the beginning of this blog entry, rather than any tribal registry laws.  There may be some local tribal laws, but the state laws are the ones to pay attention to.

Another point that must be clearly made to anyone planning to travel to Indian Country is that you are NOT going to a tourist attraction.  This is not Pennsylvania Dutch Country where you as a tourist are invited to gawk at the locals driving their buggies and eat at an expensive smorgasbord.  To the contrary, you are about to enter upon a place where quite frankly you don’t belong.  Your visit is merely tolerated, and as far as I’m concerned that is as it should be.

If you have read my previous blog post “A Medical Emergency While Traveling,” you know that in October 2024, on the night I arrived at Page, AZ to begin my journey through the Navajo Nation I had a very serious medical emergency that landed me in the Page Hospital emergency room.  

When I left there the following morning I was recovering but in no shape for the reservation deep dive I had planned.  Still, my fastest way home to Iowa was to get myself to I-40 in New Mexico and stay in interstates from then on.  Driving through the Navajo Nation wasn’t the shortest route to I-40 – in fact it added about half a day – but it fit better with both Arizona’s registry requirements and with the travel I’d reported in Iowa before leaving.

Arizona’ SOR law includes a visitors grace period of 72 hours not including weekends and holidays.  Since I was planning to re-enter Utah to camp in Bears Ears the following afternoon, that would be about 32 hours in Arizona on that first leg of my journey.  The next morning (Wednesday) I would return to the Navajo Nation, where I would be in Arizona until the following afternoon before exiting at Window Rock, so that would have been 32 hours or so. As you can see, this neatly split AZ into two equal pieces so I’d never get anywhere close to the 72 hour limit, while making use of the last two partial days available to me in Utah.

I decided to follow a truncated version of this original route and at least drive past the attractions and natural wonders I was to visit in my original plan.  I did spend the night at a Utah campground such that my hours in Arizona were about as originally planned. I even took a few photos, mostly from my driver’s seat.

From Page I drove southeast on State Rd. 98 to US 160 east.  From here it’s not far to Black Mesa and Navajo National Monument, which I’m sure are spectacular but I had to hurry past.  Instead I continued on to the town of Kayenta where US 163 splits off to go through Monument Valley.

Monuments in Monument Valley, Navajo Nation, as seen from my driver's seat

US 163 takes you right through Monument Valley and I could see many of the monuments from my driver’s seat (see photos). There is also Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park which is open to outsiders and according to my AAA Indian Country map includes buttes and mesas and arches and viewpoints and a visitors center. I’m sure it’s magnificent but I couldn’t stop for any of it.  Instead I continued on US 163 into Utah and the Navajo border town of Mexican Hat, which is named after a rock formation that I saw from the highway that looks a bit like a sombrero.  

About 15 miles after that I found one of the last campsites at Sand Island Recreation Area at about 5:00.  It was a weekday late in the season, and that campground was full up by dusk.  I wonder if the motels in Mexican Hat filled up too?

The next morning I followed US 191 south to my destination of Window Rock and Gallup, NM which took only about 10 of the originally planned 32+ hours, but I did make one side trip, turning off at Tribal Road 12 to the town of Tsaile, then Tribal Road 64 which let me drive by Canyon de Chelly National Monument.  There are several points of interest and viewpoints along TR 64 and I was feeling well enough by that time to walk about 50 yards to one viewpoint to get a few pictures (see photo).  Unfortunately I was unable to go on the scenic drive or stop at the visitors center.

A typical canyon view at Canyon de Chelly National Monument 

By late afternoon I was at Window Rock, where there is a Navajo Nation Museum which I was unable to go to, and a casino of course.  The casino has a faux Navajo restaurant, and I was well enough to go in there and order (to go) what everybody says you’re supposed to order in the Navajo Nation, a Navajo Taco.  But guess what?  I didn’t like it.  

That night I decided from that point on I was going to treat myself to motel rooms along the interstates to get better rest and heal, which I eventually did do.  Oh well – maybe I’ll get another chance to experience this magical land.

One other point about reservation tourism – turn on your radio!  Most First Peoples have their own radio stations these days, often NPR affiliates, and there is nothing like driving through the American Southwest with authentic Native war chants blasting on the tube!

Previous visit – October 2023

Oddly, and I’m sure uncomfortably, the Hopi Nation is located within and entirely surrounded by the Navajo Nation.  Having been to the Grand Canyon before, in October 2023 I knew I’d be skirting the edge of the Navajo Nation while driving up U.S. 89 so I decided to devote just a couple of hours to poke my head into these reservations.  

This didn’t allow enough time to drive up U.S. 160 as far as Navajo National Monument, and I regretted that, but I did get as far as Tuba City and Moenkopi, the two opposing tribal towns.  I also drove a ways down State Road 264 just to be able to say I had entered the Hopi Nation.  Tuba City and Moenkopi were the very picture of reservation poverty.  The only adobe architecture I saw were a totally fake looking gas station (see photo) and a motel next door in Tuba City (or was it Moenkopi?).  

Totally fake, inappropriate "appropriate architecture" in Tuba City / Moenkopi.

Hey, I'm a retired city planner so I've seen inappropriate "appropriate architecture" before.

Years ago my then wife and I visited perhaps the Navajo Nation’s best known tourist attraction, Antelope Canyon, which is outside the town of Page, AZ.  It’s beautiful and the Navajo tour guide played a wooden flute that echoed all over the canyon walls.

If you only want to dip your toe into the Navajo Nation, you can stop in the town of Cameron on U.S. 89 just outside of the Grand Canyon entrance road.  There has been a lot of recent road improvements and tourist construction there – now they even have a roundabout at the intersection of SR 64.  It looks to me like the Navajos envision trapping you there so you won’t be tempted to go deeper into their territory … like I did.

 A medical emergency while traveling

Yes, on my October 2024 trip to Utah and the Navajo Nation I encountered a medical emergency so serious that I might have died if I hadn’t made it to a hospital emergency room in time.  But what I want to emphasize here is the very serious registry implications arising from this medical emergency that you should be aware of if anything similar ever happens to you while traveling.

If you are a man – and let’s face it, most registrants are – as you age you will likely begin to have prostate problems – enlargement, difficulty peeing etc.  Like me, you may take a medication like Flomax to reduce the swelling.  But also like me, you may not realize your prostate can suddenly swell up and cause what doctors call “retention,” i.e. you cannot go even as your bladder gets ready to explode.

Upon returning to my “bunkhouse” after my second day at Zion National Park (see my blog post “Utah’s National Parks & Monuments”) late that night I suddenly began to experience “retention” but I didn’t know what was going on. At first it was very very difficult and painful to pee but not impossible. 

I was unable to sleep much of that night but told myself surely this is temporary and would go away in time.  The next morning was my Day 7 in Utah of the 9 days allowed per 12 month period (not the 10 days specified by statute because as I always say, you have to assume that the 10th day would trigger an obligation to register and that all partial days will be counted).  If you look at my Utah blog post you’ll see that I was planning to leave Utah to enter the Navajo Nation but re-enter to visit Bears Ears National Monument for two partial Days 8 & 9, so I was using up every Utah day I was allowed in 2024.

It so happened that my plans for that day were simple – drive from La Verkin, UT to Page, AZ about 175 miles away, which was to be my gateway to the Navajo Nation. I took the more southerly route (U.S. 89A) so I could at least pass by Vermillion Cliffs Nat. Mon. which, yes, is spectacular. In doing so I entered Arizona at about 11:00 on a Monday morning.

Arizona’ SOR law includes a visitors grace period of 72 hours not including weekends and holidays.  Since I was planning to re-enter Utah to camp in Bears Ears the following afternoon, that would be about 32 hours in Arizona on that first leg of my journey.  The next morning (Wednesday) I would return to the Navajo Nation, where I would be in Arizona until the following afternoon before exiting at Window Rock, so that’s another 32 hours or so. As you can see, this neatly split AZ into two equal pieces so I’d never get anywhere close to the 72 hour limit, while making use of the last two partial days available to me in Utah.

By the time I arrived in Page AZ my “retention” was worse than ever.  I knew Page was a big enough town to have a hospital, but instead of plugging it into my GPS and heading for the emergency room I did the stupidest thing imaginable.  I continued to wish it would go away and actually showed up at the Antelope Canyon tour place and signed up for a canyon tour the following morning.  Then I headed off for a nearby campground. 

It’s a darned good thing I stayed nearby because by midnight I was heading for the Page Hospital Emergency Room driving in great pain.  And then I ran into another medical emergency when the hospital staff – in my opinion – botched the catheter insertion that drained my bladder.  So by about 2:00 am I left the hospital with a painful catheter in me to try and sleep in my minivan (which as always had a comfortable bed in the back) in their parking lot.  I even went back in when I woke the next morning (Tuesday) to discuss everything before deciding how to proceed.

When I looked thru my photos later I couldn't believe I'd taken a pic of the emergency room entrance - even then I guess I knew I'd be blogging about this

What were the registry implications of what had happened so far?  For one thing, if either (a) I had been much stupider than I actually was that night, or (b) if the hospital staff had botched my catheter much worse than they did, I could have ended up hospitalized in a state that only allows me 72 hours of which I had already consumed about 13 when I arrived at the hospital.  The clock was ticking.

As an out-of-stater I don’t know Arizona’s procedure, but I can only assume that initial registration must be in person and must happen before the end of the 72 hour grace period.  And where would I have to go to do this?

Now you see the urgency of all this.  If I was laid up in a hospital for more than 2 days I could be committing a registry violation, which, if Arizona is anything like Florida or Iowa, could mean prison time!  I am so fortunate that this didn’t happen.

Then there are the Iowa registry travel reporting considerations.  If my itinerary changes enough to make a difference to them I can call in that change.  I believe they’d care about a 2-3 day hospital stay because it would delay my previously reported return date.  And making this change would necessarily document my time in Arizona.

Taking all this into account, including the fact that in the hours and days that followed I really did feel better as the hospital staff had promised, and considering how disappointed I was to have my Navajo Nation tour totally ruined, I decided on a truncated version of my original route through the Navajo Nation wherein I camped in Utah as originally planned.  From there I drove straight south to Window Rock and Gallup, NM where I got on I-40 as originally planned. 

By the time I got home to Iowa the Page Hospital had sent all my records to my urologist and I had an appointment with her.  But the most important message of this story is – DO NOT be stupid like I was.  We’re all getting older and some kind of medical emergency is coming.  When it does, recognize it and don’t try to wish it away.  Get help.

  Utah's National Parks & Monuments

 

The Grotto, as seen from Angel's Landing Trail, Zion National Park

From the 50 State Visitor Guide:

Utah Code Ann.  2019 §§77-41-101 through 77-41-112

Utah. Code Ann. §§77-27-21.7 through 77-27-21.9

U.A.C. §§R251-110-1 through R251-110-5

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

“Sex Offender” is defined to include any out-of-state SO who is in Utah for more than 10 days in any 12 month period. §77-41-102(17)(b).

Visitors must register “within 10 days of entering the state, regardless of the offender’s length of stay.”  §77-41-105. 

Updates required within 3 business days. §77-41-105.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Presence restriction: May not be on premises of a day care or preschool, public swimming pool, school, community park open to the public, playground that is open to the public.  Exceptions for access to schools when carrying out “necessary parental responsibilities” and day care center or preschool when in building for other purposes.

Residence restriction: w/in 1,000 ft. of victim, with exceptions. §77-27-21.7.

“Sex Offender in Presence of Child Law:”  Registrants w/ convictions involving minors under 14 years old cannot invite the minor to accompany him or her absent parental consent, with exceptions.  §77-27-21.8.

Because “Sex Offender” is defined to include only out-of-state SO’s in Utah for more than 10 days in a 12 month period (see Registration Triggers & Deadlines at left), visitors not meeting this definition would, in theory, not be required to register & thus not subject to these restrictions during their visit. However, this theory remains untested.

Duration & updates:

Lifetime. Petition 10 years.  Updates every 6 mo. §77-41-105.

Most recent visit: October 2024

Compared to other states, Utah’s restrictions on registered visitors shouldn’t be too tough to get along with.  Yes it does have presence restrictions, including the usual boogeymen such as day care centers, schools, public swimming pools, community parks & playgrounds. I assume that, like me, you have no interest in visiting any of these places on your visit to Utah. Notice that the list includes “public swimming pools” but not the pool at any hotel you may be staying at.  

Also, it says “community parks” but not state and national parks. That should be a relief since Utah’s national parks and monuments, national forests, and state parks are among the state’s biggest attractions.

Lastly, because the term “Sex Offender” is defined by statute to include only out-of-state registrants in Utah for more than 10 days in a 12 month period (see Registration Triggers & Deadlines), visitors not meeting this definition would, in theory, not be required to register & thus not subject to these restrictions during their visit. Admittedly, however, this theory remains untested.  Still, you get ten days in-state per calendar year without ever having to test it. Most registered visitors should have nothing to worry about. Just remember, all partial days are going to count toward the 10 day total, including your entry and exit days.

Utah has some of the most stunningly beautiful natural wonders of any state in the union. I had been there two years ago, and also the year before I went to prison. That first time I went specifically because I had no idea whether I’d ever be able to come back. Now that I have my chance I can never resist the chance to go back.

If by any chance you ever read my previous Utah blog post (now deleted) you’d know that I have wanted to focus an entire road trip on Utah’s great natural wonders instead of just “slowing down” on my way through to see a few things on my way back home from somewhere else.  Also, my previous drive-by trips were in the second half of October when the weather in Utah can be pretty darned cold.  

This time I spent over a week in Utah, and chose the first week of October. I spent an entire day at each park, arriving as early as possible (i.e. about 6:30 am) and breaking off around 3:00 pm to head for my next campground.  The weather that week was perfect, yet it was still a so-called “shoulder season” when the parks were less crowded than at the summer peak. I also want to give a shout out to a AAA map called “Indian Country” which I used to guide myself on this trip. It’s the most complete info on this region I have ever seen. 

Arches National Park – Days 1-2

Whether you are coming from the east or west, I urge you to skip the main access highway US 191 and go in the back way which is State Rd 128 – it runs along the Colorado River through some of the most magnificent canyons you will ever see. Plus there are many campgrounds and on the first week of October there were plenty of sites available. However, DO NOT think you’re going to find any last minute food or supplies at the exit or anywhere else on this road because it doesn’t exist. Stock up ahead of time or wait until you get to Moab.

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Of Utah’s Big 5 National Parks Arches is my 2nd favorite (sorry, Zion is even better). It is truly a wonderland and this time I went to places I’d never been to before e.g. Devil’s Garden (Wow!). Then there’s Delicate Arch, Fiery Furnace, Balanced Rock, and of course Park Avenue and the Courthouse Towers.

Every American should see these great wonders before you die.

Canyonlands National Park – Day 3

Canyonlands is a huge park that encompasses the confluence of the Colorado River and Green River. The northern section, called Island in the Sky, is accessed from US 191 via State Rd 313 which is much closer to civilization than the southern Needles section. Because of that remoteness I’d never been to The Needles before, but this time I camped as close to that park entrance as I could – not realizing that because this remoteness I could have gone to the Squaw Flat campground inside the park which was half-empty.

Grandview Point, Canyonlands

It turns out while The Needles can be seen in the distance from the park road, you can’t actually go explore them without at least a 2 day backpacking commitment and I’m too old for that.  There are a couple of canyon views in this section too but they don’t hold a candle to the overlooks from Island in the Sky, where I also was able to spend a few hours before heading off to my next campground.

Along the 50 mile road to The Needles you will also pass the famous Newspaper Rock petroglyphs. WOW!

Like the Grand Canyon, all of the main canyon views are from above.  Unlike the Grand Canyon, there are no guided horse treks to get you to the bottom of the canyons. You’re on your own if you want to explore the remote areas of the park.

Be sure to make the side trip to Dead Horse Point State Park which is really spectacular.

Capital Reef National Park – Day 4

I imagine you have not heard of Capital Reef – but you should have. It’s truly spectacular.  Unfortunately, as of October 2024 there’s a lot of construction going on, and the scenic drive that takes you to the most remote areas you can get to by car – well, it’s completely closed.  That was a big disappointment since my plan was to go all the way to the end and go for a hike which I’d not done before, perhaps to see the Golden Dome. The visitor center parking lot is also completely ripped up. 

Caleb Canyon Trail, Capital Reef

Capital Reef has within it a preserved historic town named Fruita. Yes it has a blacksmith shop and a fruit pie shop, but it’s really not that great.  There are viewpoints and trails extending from State Rd 24 so I hiked part of the Cohab Canyon trail and it was beautiful.  Maybe next time the construction will be finished.

West of Capital Reef on State Rd. 24, be sure to stop at Red Canyon. It’s well worth your time.

Grand Staircase / Route 12 Corridor – Day 5

The Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument is vast and remote. If you’re a backpacker or have an ATV you can go exploring, but otherwise you’re restricted to the highways that skirt the edges of it, like US 89 to the south and Historic Route 12 which is just about the only route from Capitol Reef to Bryce Canyon.  

Escalante Petrified Forest

The good news is there’s plenty to see along Route 12 and I try to go to new places every time.  This time, after leaving Capital Reef I found a campsite at one of the many campgrounds along the way.  Then the next morning before proceeding to Bryce Canyon I took I hike at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. Yes I saw petrified tree trunks. 

On past trips I have visited Anasazi State Park & Museum (very interesting) and camped at Kodachrome Basin St. Pk. which is named after the colorful landscape.

Bryce Canyon – also Day 5

Bryce Canyon is all about the hoodoos – those otherworldly spires that made this canyon famous. There have to be millions of them. And for me, therein lies the problem.  Much like you sometimes hear people say the Grand Canyon is “just a big hole in the ground,” I have to admit my attitude toward hoodoos is, “you seen one hoodoo, you seen ’em all.” 

Bryce Canyon

Bryce has one main road from the entrance to the far south end of the park.  There are many viewpoints and they are very beautiful but they all look the same to me.  You can remain in the Bryce Amphitheater area and end your tour at Bryce Point, but on this trip I drove all the way down to the end of the road at Rainbow Point hoping for a little variety but no, it’s just more hoodoos.

However, out on Route 12 east of the park entrance you will find Mossy Cave and waterfalls, which is about a one mile hike, very cool and something I’d never seen before.

Zion National Park – Days 6 & 7

Zion is my favorite national park and on this trip I allowed two days for it. What makes Zion so unique is that, unlike the Grand Canyon, or Canyonlands, or Bryce, the entry to Zion National Park takes you straight into the mouth of the most spectacular canyon you will ever see (my opinion), the Virgin River which flows through the canyon nourishes a forested canyon floor filled with wildlife, and there are such a variety of things to see!

Zion Canyon as seen from a rocky overlook

On this trip one week into October I was able to find parking at the Visitor Center as long as I got there by 7:00 am. The weather was good, the park was crowded, and the bus trams were still in operation until the end of the month. Get off at The Grotto, Court of the Patriarchs. Then the Zion – Mt. Carmel Highway takes you up the switchbacks to the WPA Project tunnel, Canyon overlook and spectacular views.

One thing you should know about Zion National Park is that both camping and anything like an affordable motel room in the tourist town of Springdale are basically nonexistent, and I was visiting on a weekend. While on the tram a couple was bragging about how they had found a good affordable room – but that was in St. George, 50 miles away! I had managed to find a bed in a four-person bunkhouse in La Verkin, UT, “only” 25 miles away. Good news! Even on a weekend, it was off-season enough that the bunkhouse place was mostly empty and I had an entire bunkhouse with kitchen and bathroom to myself for $75 per night. Yey!

Bears Ears & Natural Bridges Nat. Mons. – Days 8 & 9

If you’ve never been to Utah you’ve probably never heard of either Bears Ears or Natural Bridges National Monuments.  If you choose to read my next blog post which will describe the registry implications of a very serious medical emergency I experienced on the day after I left Zion Nat, Park you’ll know why I was unable to do much more than drive past Bears Ears on this trip. But I have been there in the past and I can tell you it’s just as spectacular as everywhere else in Utah.

Newspaper Rock !

Together with Glen Canyon Nat, Recreation Area, Bears Ears actually surrounds Canyonlands Nat. Park – Newspaper Rock is in Bears Ears, not Canyonlands.  From there Bears Ears extends all the way south to the Navajo Nation (which includes southernmost Utah). Natural Bridges Nat. Mon. is much smaller and located entirely within Bears Ears.

There’s just so much in Utah. It never seems to end.