Ojibwe Nation Archipelago
Reservation tourism in WI & MN
Native American nations can be fascinating places to visit,
but make no mistake – you might tell yourself you are entering a sovereign
nation when you cross the reservation boundary but you aren’t. You’ll still be bound by the registry laws of
whatever US state you’re in.
Nor should you get any funny ideas if you are of native
ancestry that you can somehow escape your registry status by moving to the
reservation of whatever tribe you belong to.
You can’t. As you must already
realize, the oppression of the registry will follow you onto the reservation
whether you’re a visitor or become a resident.
That’s why I have placed the registry laws of Wisconsin and Minnesota at
the beginning of this blog entry, rather than any tribal registry laws. There may be a few tribal laws on the books
but they’ve got bigger concerns than having yet another outsider passing
through.
Another point that must be
clearly made to anyone planning to travel to Indian Country is that you are NOT
going to a tourist attraction. This is
not Pennsylvania Dutch Country where you as a tourist are invited to gawk at
the locals driving their buggies and eat at an expensive smorgasbord. To the contrary, you are about to enter upon
a place where quite frankly you don’t belong.
Your visit is merely tolerated, and as far as I’m concerned that is as
it should be.
Most recent visit: July 2025
Despite this lack of an
invitation, however, on my 2025 road trip to WI & MN I wanted to travel
through as many reservations as I could squeeze into the time allotted. These included the following:
Ojibwe Nation – Lac du Flambeau
Band
Ojibwe Nation – Lac Courte
Oreilles Band
Ojibwe Nation – Leech Lake Band
Ojibwe Nation – White Earth
Band
Point of clarification: You
won’t see “Ojibwe Nation” on your Rand McNally or GPS map. Instead it says Chippewa Indians. I never saw that word used on any reservation
so I won’t use it here.
One thing was very clear to me
as I traveled through the Ojibwe Archipelago – the Ojibwe people love their
lakes and forests and will do whatever it takes to protect them from
exploitation by outsiders. In the past that
would’ve been fur traders, mining and logging.
Wow, logging … that must’ve been just horrible for the Ojibwe to
witness.
Today the danger comes from an
invasion of tourists and gamblers. How
can each Band harness the economic potential of these new invaders without
sacrificing their lands and culture in the process? One approach followed by all Ojibwe Bands I
visited is severely restricting on their lands all the commercial crap that
supports the recreation tourism that has overwhelmed this region – especially
northern Wisconsin.
As soon as I crossed any
reservation boundary all that disappeared, replaced by sacred lakes and
forests. Commercial development is
restricted mostly to their towns. The
few billboards you’ll see have either public service messages or promote
businesses in the towns. As a retired
town planner I wholeheartedly endorse that approach.
The main tribal town is where
you will find tribal offices and government, public health and welfare
services. Each Band also provides a
rural transit system to get their people to these services. I came across a couple of museums but they
were closed and had only occasional hours.
There is usually a reservation
store in the tribal town. Nowadays it
looks and acts much like a supermarket and center of community life. I’ve started visiting these stores to see how
the town is doing. I didn’t see any
local restaurants – why is that? Instead
there’s a food counter at the reservation store but they only sell the same
crap you’d get off-reservation.
Beyond that I adapted my
approach to visiting small towns to each Band of the archipelago. See the reservation, visit the tribal town’s
downtown and check on its residential neighborhoods. Out of concern for privacy I took very few
photos.
What did I find?
Wisconsin - From the 50
state visitor guide :
Wis. Stat. 2019 §§301.45
through 301.50
Registration Triggers and Deadlines:
10 days for initial
registration, after entering state, and for updates. Employment defined as a period exceeding 14
days or 30 days in a calendar year. §301.45(3).
Per Wisconsin SOR response
letter (2019), the 10 day period also applies to visitors. No mention of any limit per month or year.
Per Wisconsin SOR response
letter (2019), a procedure is
available for removal from registry after departure.
Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:
Registrants must provide notice before going on school grounds. §
301.475.
Duration & updates:
15 years to life. Verification: SVPs – 90 days; others
annually. §301.45(4).
Ojibwe Nation – Lac du Flambeau Band
This Band lies just
west of the main recreation tourist region of northern Wisconsin, but turns its
back on their neighbors’ garish commercialism.
Lac du Flambeau means Lake of the Torch, and there’s lots of torch
imagery here. The town is in the center
of the reservation surrounded by a couple of nice lakes.
The Ojibwe are justly proud of their veterans
This Band’s casino
is right at the main intersection downtown.
They are hoping that some gamblers will take a break and patronize the
cluster of businesses they have there.
Reservation store okay. Town has
an impressive group of tribal administration and public health and welfare
facilities.
Continuing west, WI
47 passes between two of the lakes. Here
there are several very nice lakefront vacation home neighborhoods. It looks like these expensive vacation homes
are this Band’s concession to the tourist industry, bringing in tax revenue and
seasonal customers for their town. If I
was looking for a desirable lakefront vacation home, secluded but close to all my
vacation needs, this would be the place.
On the other hand I
suppose there’s nothing to prevent tribal leaders and elites from suburbanizing
to these nice lakefront neighborhoods, right?
The tribe gets the tax income either way. That could also explain why the old
neighborhoods in Lac du Flambeau are total slums – everybody left who could. I remember seeing a small apartment complex
under construction as I headed back east out of town.
Ojibwe Nation – Lac Courte Oreilles Band
This Band is about
the same area as Lac du Flambeau, but differently situated, between the nearby
county seat of Hayward and Chequamegon Nat. Forest. They have put their casino not far off reservation
on the way to Hayward. The tribal town,
Reserve, is tiny although there is a reservation store.
I’m guessing that
instead of duplicating all the public health, welfare and business services
available so close at hand, the Lac Courte Oreilles Band is better off
contracting with the providers in Hayward and making sure they have good rural
transit service to get their people there.
That way Band members have their beautiful lakes and forests to
themselves.
Similar to Lac du
Flambeau, one of the Lac Courte Oreilles Band’s lakes has a peninsular
lakefront community called Northwood Beach.
I respected privacy by not venturing in but I imagine it to be another
mixture of outsider vacation homes and local leaders and elites.
Small Town Notes
Hayward:
From Wisconsin blog post – Guess
what? Behind all that shlock on US 63
there’s a real town! Downtown is right
off US 63 and benefiting from tourist growth.
Here I will add – “All that schlock on US 63” includes the
public health, welfare and business services the Lac Courte Oreilles Band
needs.
Minnesota - From the 50
state visitor guide :
Minn. Stat. 2019 §243.166
Registration Triggers and Deadlines:
5 days for initial
registration and updates.
Visitors: Presence in state for more than 14 days or
30 days per calendar year triggers obligation to register. §243.166(1b).
Registrants without a primary address register within 24 hours of entering new
jurisdiction, & provide updates in-person weekly.
Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:
None. Only Level 3
offenders are placed on the public website. (per NARSOL Digest, June 2018, p.7)
Duration & updates:
10 yrs – life. Updates annually (weekly for those without
permanent residence). §243.166.
Each of the two
Ojibwe Bands in Minnesota is larger in area than both of the Wisconsin Bands
put together. Also, both reservations
but especially the Leech Lake Band include and are surrounded by state and
federally protected lands and forests that interconnect with vast network of protected
lands that extend all the way up to Voyageurs National Park on the Canadian
border (see my blog post “Flirting with Ontario”). Although that’s probably a blessing and a
curse. There are more Ojibwe Archipelago
reservations up north too – most notably the Red Lake Band – that I didn’t get
to visit on this trip.
From a distance it
looks like a perfect set up for a people who love their lakes and forests, so I
certainly hope the Ojibwe have retained or wrestled back control of their
hunting, fishing and occupational rights to these lands.
Last, and not only
not least but most important, the source and headwaters of the Mississippi
River lie at Lake Itaska in Itaska State Park and Mississippi Headwaters State
Forest, both located smack in between the Leech Lake Band and White Earth
Band’s territories. Although the Ojibwe
may have had this beating heart of their homeland stolen from them, I came away
with reason to imagine that they never forget its role in their culture and
exert some influence over what goes on there.
Ojibwe Nation – Leech Lake Band
Coming from the east
I elected not to follow US through the middle of the reservation. Instead I took a side trip on MN 6, 200 &
371. This took me through Chippewa
National Forest. Within the Leech Lake
Band territory I found a series of roads leading off to Leech Lake with signs
saying “Resort ---->” Some said “RV
Resort” and some didn’t.
As you can imagine,
vacation tourism in Minnesota is all about its 10,000 lakes. The Leech Lake Band includes really nice
likes. It looks to me like the
concession to vacation tourism this Band has made is to accommodate a series of
self-contained “resorts” around their lakes.
Again, I respected privacy by not going to see these resorts but I think
we can all conjure up an image of what a nice secluded lakefront RV resort with
its own resort store and café might be like.
Pretty nice, actually. Meanwhile
the Ojibwe people have the rest of their lands to themselves.
I wondered if Walker
was the reservation town, but it’s not.
It’s an Anglo town. The
reservation town is Cass Lake and it’s a dump although it has all the usual public
health, welfare and business services I’ve come to expect. I stayed at a nearby national forest
campground that night.
Sacred Mississippi Headwaters
Mississippi River Source and HeadwatersItasca State Park
and Mississippi Headwaters State Forest are beautiful places and it broke my
heart to know how it’s been torn away from its native people. To add insult to injury, the nearby town of
Bemidji boasts the world’s largest statue of Paul Bunyan – America’s symbol of
forest destruction and denudation. He stands there with his stupid ox, sticking a thumb in the eye of the Ojibwe people. I refuse to disgrace this post by including my photo of him here ... I'll put it in my Minnesota blog - properly defaced.
However … it so
happened that while I was at Itasca State Park a school bus pulled up and
unloaded a class of summer day care kids on a field trip. The bus said “Cass Lake Tribal Schools.” This lifted my spirits. The Ojibwe Nation is doing what it takes so
their children will honor and protect their native heritage. As CSN sang: “Teach your children well … And
feed them on your dreams …”
The Mississippi flows through an absolutely stunning meadow just a few miles from its source. This is my favorite photo from my entire trip.
Ojibwe Nation – White Earth Band
The White Earth Band
is different than the others. Going
west, somewhere around the Headwaters of the Mississippi America’s Northern
Forests give way the fertile open land of the Great Plains. This is farmland, it was late June, the crops
were growing and the agricultural economy looked as strong as I have ever seen
in my new home state of Iowa. And why
shouldn’t the Ojibwe be great farmers?
They were right here growing corn long before the europeans got here.
As I have said, if
the agricultural economy is strong the town will prosper. The White Earth Band reservation town is
Mahnomen, and sure enough it’s prosperous.
Mahnomen has everything a Great Plains agricultural town could ask for –
starting with an active rail line and a couple of nice giant grain elevators in
the middle of town so the Ojibwe farmers cooperative can get their products to
market.
Not only that but
there are a couple of other small industries in the town with parking lots full
of employees. It’s the county seat of
Mahnomen County which is entirely within White Earth Band territory. Add all those tribal administration and
services into the mix and gee whiz, I wonder who’s running this town,
right? The downtown is the usual
reservation style jumble, but I swear, the residential neighborhoods are laid
out just like any other prosperous Midwestern farm town. Oh yeah, there's a casino too.
However … as I sat
in a convenience store parking lot and watched a tribal rural transit bus drop
off an old person having difficulty walking inside, I wondered about the
challenge to the White Earth Band’s culture and heritage that this very
prosperity represents. Any time you have
more jobs than local people can fill you’re going to be invaded by outsiders
wanting those jobs.
The same goes for
Mahnomen’s nice neighborhoods. I can’t
help wondering who’s really living there (but no I won’t look it up). Also, if the farms are successful outside
agricultural corporations will want in.
The White Earth Band could easily become the victims of their own
success.