FLIRTING WITH CANADA
A cross-country backpack to Alberta
Waterton-Glacier International
Peace Park & World Heritage Site
Travel Alert 2026:
There is a small but
non-zero chance that this flirting opportunity will bring you into contact with
US or Canadian customs
In
case you don’t know, the problem with Canada is that they don’t allow in anyone
with a past felony, passport or not. A few years ago I visited the
International Peace Garden, which is open to Americans but part of it is in
Manitoba. I blogged about that. Since then I’ve returned to the U.S.-Canadian
border looking for other places along the US-Canada border where Americans are
permitted inside a hermetically sealed little chunk of Canada.
Given the current repressive
climate against PFR’s that has come to be known as the Epstein Shadow, combined
with the violent climate against immigrants and others deemed suspicious at our
borders, I now warn any current or formerly registered person against putting
yourself in any situation where you might come into contact with U.S. Customs
unless you have a valid passport in hand.
Although I believe the chances
of coming into contact with US or Canadian Customs in the back country are
small, I strongly recommend having a passport if you attempt this. If something bizarre happens, Canada won’t
let you in, but they’ll send you back, and that’s when having a passport will
be really handy when going through US Customs.
One thing I want to make clear
is that this is just a game. Nobody is
trying to sneak across the border. I
don’t even want to do that and it would violate the rules of the game – which
are that it has to be a bona fide place where any American is allowed to be
without a passport. So let’s play the
game:
From the 50 State Visitor Guide : Montana
Mont. Code Ann.
2021 §§46-23-504
through 46-23-520.
Registration Triggers and Deadlines:
Three business days
for initial registration and updates; transients shall register within 3
business days of entering state.
Visitors: Must register within 3 business days of
entering the state for a temporary residence of 10 days or more, or for an
aggregate period of 30 days in calendar year.
§§46-23-504, 46-23-505.
Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:
None.
Per Montana SOR office, visitors required to register should return to
the locality where registered and “check out” and will be removed from
registry. Whether this system works in practice is untested.
Duration & updates:
Life. Petition to
remove – T1 - 10 yrs; T2 – 25 yrs.
Updates by mail: T1 – annual; T2 – 6 months; T3
–90 days; Transients in person- 30 days.
§§46-23-504, 56-23-506.
Waterton-Glacier International
Peace Park & World Heritage Site
High Adventure Rating
– A+
Flirt Rating – D
One of my goals in this game
has been to find at least one flirting spot for each Canadian province. Until August 2026 I had found flirting spots
for – Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario and New Brunswick. Alberta is a particular challenge.
Waterton-Glacier International
Peace Park & World Heritage Site, known to Americans as Glacier National
Park, is the obvious (and only) choice.
However, it’s a 60 mile round trip backcountry high difficulty hiking
adventure to get to the Canadian border and back from the closest trailhead on
Going-to-the Sun Road, which is “The Loop.”
I’m
way too old to even think about this one, but if you attempt it you should do
so for the love of backcountry hiking through a
spectacular World Heritage Site that
you as a registered person are allowed to go to – and only
secondarily as a flirting opportunity.
In addition, Montana law only
allows you nine days for the whole adventure, because the 10th day triggers
your obligation to register. Your first
reaction might be, oh surely that’s enough time! But think about it – That’s 4
days each way plus one day to hike a loop around the international area. Plus, you’ll have to base yourself in Idaho,
the closest neighboring state, a half day drive from the trailhead. If you divide 30 miles by 3 1/2 days, you get
about 8 1/2 miles per full day.
I hear someone thinking, okay,
well that’s not too bad. But just keep
in mind, every step is high difficulty backpacking. Be realistic – how far can you get in one day?
How about nine days? Plus, you’re going to
have to pack in all 9 days of supplies, because you can’t stop in Watertown,
Alberta for supplies halfway through because if you do you’ll just get
deported.
However … I’ve been thinking,
that might not be a bad way of cutting the trip in half, right? Hike the 30 mile trail to Waterton, turn
yourself in and really, the only consequence is you get deported on Day 5. Now you have all the time you need in Montana
for arrival and departure. But I sure
wouldn’t do that without a passport to show US Customs when the Canadians drop
you off on Chief Mountain International Highway (MT Hwy 17). Also wouldn’t hurt to have someone waiting to
pick you up.
One last comment: Obviously you’re not going on a 30 mile high
difficulty hike in the wilderness by yourself.
That’s a good way to get eaten. So
my advice is, anybody in your group who has any past felony should definitely
have a passport when attempting this.
But … anybody in your group with a clean record should probably leave
their passport at home – so you all can be deported together.
As part of my research I
stopped at the St. Mary Visitor Center and approached the young lady behind the
reception desk. I told her exactly what
I was doing, with the only generalization being that I said my website is aimed
at “people with past felonies.” Which is
completely true. Then I asked:
“If I was to hike up there, at
what point would I actually encounter Canadian Customs? I mean, they don’t have some guy sitting at a
desk at the border, right?” Answer: No,
they don’t. But you’ll definitely
encounter them in Waterton.
Looking at the map, you’ll see
I have labeled the area between the US checkpoint at Goat Haunt Ranger Station
and the Canadian checkpoint in Waterton as “Land Between the Ranger Stations.” This is the open border zone.
The rest of Glacier National
Park
The first thing you should know
about Glacier National Park is that it is, of course, magnificent. In 2023 the clouds shrouded the jagged mountains
such that I thought I must be taking the road tour through Middle Earth. Unfortunately in 2026 the air was smokey. At the mountain peaks (the U.S. Continental
Divide) it was cold even at mid-day – I was glad I’d brought gloves and winter
clothing just in case. However, the sad
news is that due to global warming there are few glaciers in Glacier National
Park, at least when I was there in August 2026.
Fabulous mountains, but on a smokey day with just a couple of tiny glaciers
The second thing you should
know is that as with most great national parks, this one can be very crowded
during peak season. In 2023 I was
distressed to find they were only allowing “reserved admissions” during daily
peak hours. However, if you get there
early like I did in 2026 there was no problem.
Amazing animals and fields of flowers
Nevertheless Glacier National
Park was quite crowded that day. I found
it impossible to find parking anywhere close to the main visitor center at
Logan Pass. In fact people were parking
street-side over half a mile away, so I had to skip that even though it meant
missing out on a freezing cold mountaintop tundra hike. With some effort I was
able to find parking at other stops along the main park road.
Waterfalls
Perhaps this is why Glacier
runs frequent shuttle bus service along the length of the main road all the way
from Agpar Visitor Center to St. Mary’s.
It has stops at every major point of interest along the park road. The
only catch is you’ll need to plan your trip so you park at the big parking lot
at one of the park entrances and return there at the end of the day to continue
on your Pacific Northwest journey.
Regional Fruit: Huckleberry
Gift shop displays at and
around Glacier National Park feature huckleberry jams, candy bars, taffies,
pancake mixes and syrups. Most
native people of the region, including the Blackfeet Tribe just east of
Glacier, have also adopted the huckleberry as their tribal fruit. It’s all made by the same company with
different labels. Choose which national
park or tribe you wish to support with your tourist dollars.
PS – Huckleberry bits dark chocolate bar – YES!
Bruce Hossfield, Atwo Zee Registered Traveler