Navajo, Hopi & Zuni Nations: 

First Nations tourism in the Southwest

Ancient communal dwelling a Chaco Canyon

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: Arizona

A.R.S. 2019  §§ 13-3821 through 13-3829, 13-3727

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

Visitors must register if staying for more than 72 hours excluding weekends & holidays. §13-3821(A). SOR office refused to answer whether return visits allowed per month or year. “That’s determined by local sheriff.” Updated Aug 2022.

Initial reg. required “within 72 hours excluding weekends & holidays of entering and remaining in any county.”  §13-3821. Updated 8/2022.  Registrants working in state must report in any county where present for 14 consecutive days or an aggregate of 30 days/yr.  Address change etc. required w/in 72 hours (business days only).  §13-3822.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Residence restriction:  1,000 ft. restriction applies to Level 3 offenders. §13-3727. Local governments are pre-empted from adopting more restrictive requirements. §13-3727.

Duration & updates:

10 years to life. Transients report every 90 days.  All others annually.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: New Mexico

N.M. Stat. Ann. 2019  §§29-11A-1 through 29-11A-10

N.M.A.C. §1.18.790.157

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

5 business days for initial registration & updates. §29-11A-4.

State law requires “sex offenders” to register, which includes one who: (1) establishes a residence [not defined] in NM; (2) “stays in multiple locations in NM,” or (3) is enrolled in a NM school, or (4) is employed in NM for more than 14 days or an aggregate period exceeding 30 days in a calendar year. §29-11A-3.

Visitors:  NM State Police say: “If convicted prior to July 1, 2013 you will need to register if in the state of New Mexico for longer than ten (10) days. You will need to register within five (5) days if convicted after July 1, 2013.” §29-11A-4 says business days.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

State pre-emption: Cities, counties & other political subdivisions are prohibited from adopting any ordinance, rule, regulation, resolution or statute on sex offender registration and notification and from imposing any other restrictions on sex offenders that are not included in the state SOR Act. §29-11A-9.

Duration & updates:

10 years to life. Updates are every 6 mo. or every 90 days depending on offense. §29-11A-4.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide: Utah

Utah Code Ann.  2019 §§77-41-101 through 77-41-112

Utah. Code Ann. §§77-27-21.7 through 77-27-21.9

U.A.C. §§R251-110-1 through R251-110-5

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

“Sex Offender” is defined to include any out-of-state SO who is in Utah for more than 10 days in any 12 month period. §77-41-102(17)(b).

Visitors must register “within 10 days of entering the state, regardless of the offender’s length of stay.”  §77-41-105.  

Updates required within 3 business days. §77-41-105.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Presence restriction: May not be on premises of a day care or preschool, public swimming pool, school, community park open to the public, playground that is open to the public.  Exceptions for access to schools when carrying out “necessary parental responsibilities” and day care center or preschool when in building for other purposes. 

Residence restriction: w/in 1,000 ft. of victim, with exceptions. §77-27-21.7.

“Sex Offender in Presence of Child Law:”  Registrants w/ convictions involving minors under 14 years old cannot invite the minor to accompany him or her absent parental consent, with exceptions.  §77-27-21.8.

Because “Sex Offender” is defined to include only out-of-state SO’s in Utah for more than 10 days in a 12 month period (see Registration Triggers & Deadlines at left), visitors not meeting this definition would, in theory, not be required to register & thus not subject to these restrictions during their visit. However, this theory remains untested.

Duration & updates:

Lifetime. Petition 10 years.  Updates every 6 mo. §77-41-105.

Most recent visit: October 2023

Native American nations can be fascinating places to visit, but make no mistake – you might tell yourself you are entering a sovereign nation when you cross the reservation boundary but you aren’t.  You’ll still be bound by the registry laws of whatever US state you’re in.  

Nor should you get any funny ideas if you are of native ancestry that you can somehow escape your registry status by moving to the reservation of whatever tribe you belong to.  You can’t.  As you must already realize, the oppression of the registry will follow you onto the reservation whether you’re a visitor or become a resident.  That’s why I have placed the registry laws of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah at the beginning of this blog entry, rather than any tribal registry laws.  They don’t exist.

Another point that must be clearly made to anyone planning to travel to Indian Country is that you are NOT going to a tourist attraction.  This is not Pennsylvania Dutch Country where you as a tourist are invited to gawk at the locals driving their buggies and eat at an expensive smorgasbord.  To the contrary, you are about to enter upon a place where quite frankly you don’t belong.  Your visit is merely tolerated, and as far as I’m concerned that is as it should be. 

Despite this lack of an invitation, however, on my way to attend the 2023 ACSOL Conference I wanted to see the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni homelands.  There are several interesting cultural and historic sites there as well as places of great beauty.

Ancient Kiva at Chaco Culture National Historic Park

Chaco Culture National Historic Park

My first foray into native lands was to see Chaco Canyon National Historic Park which is located in the Navajo Nation in New Mexico.  I entered from the north from U.S. 550. Peering down the dirt County Road 7900 I thought, this is an official county road leading to a national park – surely it’s well maintained, right?  And it was – until it wasn’t!!  After that you and your car’s suspension are on your own!  This just illustrates how the Navajo Nation has no particular interest in whether you can get to Chaco Canyon or not.  

But just when I was sure my car was a goner I passed the park entry monument and Tadahhh !! everything inside the park is nicely paved.  Later on, leaving by the south (CR 14) was also dirt, longer but a much easier ride – although it had its moments.  I am told that these road conditions can vary widely from year to year and season to season.  Just be ready for anything.

However, the park itself is truly spectacular.  The canyon is beautiful, and the ancient pueblos and kivas are among the best preserved you’ll see anywhere.  Even I who have no military experience could see that the three main pueblos are strategically located so that, between them, the entire canyon could be well defended and the Anasazi could see any unwanted visitors approaching.

Zuni Pueblo

As I was departing New Mexico on State Road 53 I decided to stop in Zuni Pueblo, the largest town of the Zuni Nation.  It so happened this was on Indigenous Peoples Day (a.k.a. Columbus Day) and I was feeling guilty about wandering down the side streets of Zuni Pueblo on a day when the people would want more than anything not to be reminded of Europeans’ existence.  There is a small visitors center but guess what?  Appropriately enough, it was closed for Indigenous Peoples Day!

If you want to gawk at reservation poverty it would be hard to pick a better pueblo to do that than Zuni Pueblo.  Unlike San Ildefonso Pueblo which I had visited two days earlier (see my New Mexico post) there was no auto tour posted outside the visitor center, and there was almost no adobe architecture, authentic or not.  Instead it’s mostly run down shacks and mobile homes.  I didn’t take any pictures.

Totally fake, inappropriate "appropriate architecture" in Tuba City / Moenkopi.

Hey, I'm a retired city planner so I've seen inappropriate "appropriate architecture" before.

Navajo and Hopi Nations

Oddly, and I’m sure uncomfortably, the Hopi Nation is located within and entirely surrounded by the Navajo Nation.  Having been to the Grand Canyon before, I knew I’d be skirting the edge of the Navajo Nation while driving up U.S. 89 so I decided to devote just a couple of hours to poke my head more deeply into these reservations.  

This didn’t allow enough time to drive up U.S. 160 as far as Navajo National Monument, and I regret that, but I did get as far as Tuba City / Moenkopi, the two opposing tribal towns.  I also drove a ways down State Road 264 just to be able to say I had entered the Hopi Nation.  Like Zuni Pueblo, these two towns were the very picture of reservation poverty.  The only adobe architecture I saw were a totally fake looking convenience store (see photo) and a motel next door in Tuba City (or was it Moenkopi?).  

Years ago my then wife and I visited perhaps the Navajo Nation’s best known tourist attraction, Antelope Canyon, which is outside the town of Page, AZ.  It’s beautiful and the Navajo tour guide played a wooden flute that echoed all over the canyon walls.

Cameron AZ - where the Navajo people really want you to visit so you'll stay out of their reservation.

If you only want to dip your toe into the Navajo Nation, you can stop in the town of Cameron on U.S. 89 just outside of the Grand Canyon entrance road.  There has been a lot of recent road improvements and tourist construction there – now they even have a roundabout at the intersection of SR 64.  It looks to me like the Navajos envision trapping you there so you won’t be tempted to go deeper into their territory … like I did.

One other point about reservation tourism – turn on your radio!  Most First Peoples have their own radio stations these days, often NPR affiliates, and there is nothing like driving through the American Southwest with authentic Native war chants blasting on the tube!

 New Mexico

Bandera Volcano

From the 50 State Visitor Guide:

N.M. Stat. Ann. 2019  §§29-11A-1 through 29-11A-10

N.M.A.C. §1.18.790.157

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

5 business days for initial registration & updates. §29-11A-4.

State law requires “sex offenders” to register, which includes one who: (1) establishes a residence [not defined] in NM; (2) “stays in multiple locations in NM,” or (3) is enrolled in a NM school, or (4) is employed in NM for more than 14 days or an aggregate period exceeding 30 days in a calendar year. §29-11A-3.

Visitors: NM State Police say: “If convicted prior to July 1, 2013 you will need to register if in the state of New Mexico for longer than ten (10) days. You will need to register within five (5) days if convicted after July 1, 2013.” §29-11A-4 says business days.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

State pre-emption: Cities, counties & other political subdivisions are prohibited from adopting any ordinance, rule, regulation, resolution or statute on sex offender registration and notification and from imposing any other restrictions on sex offenders that are not included in the state SOR Act. §29-11A-9.

Duration & updates:

10 years to life. Updates are every 6 mo. or every 90 days depending on offense. §29-11A-4.

Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument

Most recent visit: October 2023

If your conviction was prior to July 1, 2013 New Mexico will require you to register if in the state for longer than ten days. However, if (like me) your conviction was after July 1, 2013 you only get five days. Two pieces of good news: N.M. Stat. §29-11A-4 says that either way, it’s business days. Also, there appears to be no limit per month or year, so you can leave the state for one complete calendar day (including the two nights on either side of that day, and making sure to keep your receipts to prove your whereabouts) and restart the clock again when you return.

One other piece of very good news is that not only does New Mexico have no statewide presence or residency restrictions, it is also one of seven states that statutorily pre-empt local governments from adopting any ordinance or regulation more restrictive than state law. So you can travel in New Mexico without fear of unknowingly tripping over some local land mine.

In October 2023 I was on my way to the annual ACSOL Conference and took the opportunity to see some parts of this state I’d never visited before.  I was in the state for parts of three days, entering on a Saturday and leaving on a Monday which so happened to be Indigenous Peoples Day (a.k.a. Columbus Day), so I was in New Mexico for zero business days and never actually started their five business day clock toward a registration requirement.

Entering about mid-morning of Day 1 from Colorado on I-25, I quickly ditched the interstate highway to explore New Mexico’s rugged north country on U.S. 64.  Passed by Philmont Scout Ranch where I had lead a group of teens on a backpacking adventure a lifetime ago.  Did not hear any hum in Taos.  Took a few side trips to peak at Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument, Bandelier National Monument and Valle Grande National Preserve.  All worthwhile places to visit – maybe I’ll stay longer next time.  

Church in San Ildefonso Pueblo

Another interesting stop late on Day 1 was San Ildefonso Pueblo.  As a rule, I have found that the people of the indigenous pueblos of the Southwest would much rather be left alone, but they know that tourists want to gawk at their pueblos, especially an authentic place like San Ildefonso.  The people here have put a Visitor Center at the entrance to their pueblo (closed that afternoon on account of a traditional ceremony) and have established a short driving tour you’re allowed to take as long as you stay the heck out of the rest of their community. Very interesting!  

Spent the night in Los Alamos (the town, not the military base).

On Day 2 my main adventure was Chaco Culture National Park, but that’s within the Navajo Nation which I will describe as part of my separate Navajo, Hopi & Zuni Nations post.  Camped that night at El Malpais (“The Badlands”) National Monument before taking a tour of its wonders the next morning, Day 3 of my tour of New Mexico.  That morning I also stopped at Bandera Ice Caves & Volcano, a private attraction that’s really worth the stop, and El Morro (“The Headwaters”) National Monument which has petroglyphs, a pueblo & kiva, and the graffiti of early Spanish explorers.

That final morning I passed through Zuni Pueblo, which I will describe as part of my separate Navajo, Hopi & Zuni Nations post.  By noon I was crossing the state line into Arizona.

Carlsbad caverns

Previous visit: October 2021

When I entered New Mexico from Texas in October 2021 I had a reservation for a tour at Carlsbad Caverns.  Technically, you are required to have such an advance reservation, but on the shoulder season day I arrived it wasn’t booked up so I could’ve bought the $1.00 ticket at the counter.

Wow!  Best. Cavern. Ever! Just go, and you’ll know exactly what I mean.

From Carlsbad I traveled west on U.S. 82 & U.S. 70, which took me through Lincoln National Forest and past White Sands National Monument (both very beautiful in their own ways and well worth a stop) but unfortunately I couldn’t figure out how to get to Organ Mountains Nat. Mon. from any direction. Is that deliberate? The peaks sure look spectacular from I-10.

 Yellowstone National Park

From the 50 State Visitor Guide (Wyoming):

Wyo. Stat. 2019 §§7-19-301 through  7-19-320

AWA Compliant

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

3 business days for initial registration and updates, including temporary trips and vacations. “Temporary residence” includes hotels, motels, camping areas & parks. §7-19-301(xi)(C).

Visitors must register within 3 business days. §7-19-302(c)(iv).

Per Rolfe Survey, visiting registrants once placed on state’s registry ARE NOT REMOVED.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Residence restriction: Adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302” may not reside within 1,000 ft. from schools. §6-2-320.

Presence restrictions:  Adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302” may not enter school grounds if s/he “has reason to believe children … are present and are involved in school activity or when children are presents w/in 30 mins. before or after scheduled school activity” and may not “knowingly loiter on a public way within 1,000 feet from the property line of school grounds.” Various exceptions apply. §6-2-320.

Because §6-2-320 says these restrictions apply to adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302”, and visitors in state for less than 3 business days are not required to register, such visitors would, in theory, not be subject to these restrictions.  However, this theory remains untested.

Duration & updates:

Lifetime; petitions for removal available. §7-19-304. Updates: §7-19-302.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide (Montana):

Mont. Code Ann. 2019 §§46-23-504 through 46-23-520.

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

3 business days for initial registration and updates; transients shall register within 3 business days of entering state.  

Visitors: Must register within 3 business days of entering the state for a temporary residence of 10 days or more, or for an aggregate period of 30 days in calendar year. §§46-23-504, 46-23-505.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

None

Duration & updates:

Life. Petition to remove – T1 - 10 yrs.  T2 – 25 yrs.

Updates by mail: T1 – annual; T2 – 6 mo.; T3 –90 days. Transients in person - 30 days. §§46-23-504, 56-23-506.

From the 50 State Visitor Guide (Idaho):

Idaho Code 2019 §§18-8301 through 18-8414

I.D.A.P.A. §11.10.03.000 through 11.10.03.012.

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

2 working days for initial registration and updates.  Transient registrants must report location every 7 days. §§18-8307, 18-8308.

Statutes do not address registration requirements for visitors.  Rolfe survey indicates that visits of 7 days or more require registration.  

Temporary volunteers or employees:  Must register if in state for more than ten consecutive days, or for an aggregate period of 30 days in a calendar year.  If “employment involves counseling, coaching, teaching, supervising or working with minors in any way,” must register “regardless of the period of employment.” §18-8303(6).

Per Rolfe Survey, Visiting Registrants once placed on state’s registry ARE NOT REMOVED.

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

May not reside or loiter within 500 ft. of school, and may not reside within more than one person also required to register, with certain exceptions. §§18-8331, 18-8332.

Presence restriction:  Day cares, unless picking up or dropping off one’s own children. §18-8327.

Duration & updates:

Life.  Petition to remove – 10 yrs.  Sexually Violent Persons must update every 3 months.  All others update annually. §18-8307.

Grand Prismatic Spring and Old Faithful

Most recent visit - July 2015

Much as I may have wanted to, I did not visit Yellowstone as part of my recent 2023 Pacific Northwest tour.  Actually, I have visited Yellowstone only once, and that was just before I wrecked my life and ended up on the registry.  On that trip I spent three days at Yellowstone and still didn’t see nearly all of it.  In fact, it was knowing that those previous three days at Yellowstone were the bare minimum needed to be able to say I saw it all that kept me from adding it to my 2023 tour.  Even though I had four weeks for this trip, there wasn’t enough time to include Yellowstone.

I’d like very much to return and see more, and now that I’m on the registry I realize that the number of days allowed in each of the three states – Wyoming, Montana and Idaho – without triggering an obligation to register, is a tricky issue that will involve careful planning.

First let’s compare the visitor requirements of each of these three states.  Most important is Wyoming, where visitors must register within 3 business days. §7-19-302(c)(iv).  NOTE: “Within 3 business days” means the third day will trigger your obligation to register, so you really only get two days; however, it’s business days, so if you include a weekend that stretches it to four days (five if you can throw in a holiday).  Keep in mind that, as with many other states, partial days will count.  Also, Wyoming law defines “temporary residence” to include hotels, motels, camping areas & parks. §7-19-301(xi)(C), so they’ve got you covered no matter where you spend the night.

However, Wyoming has no limitations on the number of return visits per month or year.  This is an important consideration for registered visitors because it means that if you leave the state for at least two nights and one day (so that the intervening day can’t be counted against you as a “partial day”) you can return and restart the clock.  By planning carefully you can have the time you need to really see Yellowstone.

Yellowstone Falls and Grand Canyon as seen from Lookout Point

If you need to spend a little time outside Wyoming, the obvious choice for registered visitors is Montana.  That’s because unless you’re staying 10 or more days there (or 30 per calendar year) you don’t need to register.  Also, Montana has no statewide residency or presence restrictions.  So your Yellowstone trip can be split into two 4-5 day weekends with a mid-week side trip to Montana.  How bad can that be?

The northern entrance (via U.S. 89) and western entrance (via U.S. 20) both take you to Montana, although the western entrance also takes you in short order to Idaho. Both entrances have motels, resorts and campgrounds for you to choose from as you are staging yourself for your Yellowstone visit.  However there’s not really much to do in West Yellowstone while you’re on your two night hiatus, and it’s remote from many Montana or even Idaho attractions.

Speaking of Idaho, as I noted in my recent blog entry about that state, calling the Idaho SOR office is useless because all you get is an outgoing message that says they only answer questions from attorneys.  Therefore in discussing the number of days you can be in this state or what restrictions might apply to you while visiting I need to err on the side of caution. 

For example, “transient registrants” must report location every 7 days (§§18-8307, 18-8308) and I notice that the Rolfe Survey claims visits of 7 days or more require registration.  Putting those two things together I conclude that if you’re in state for 7 days or more that would automatically make you a  “transient registrant” and you have to register … so just be back for your second weekend at Yellowstone by the end of Day 6.

Porcelain  Basin, Norris

In 2015 I was not yet on the registry so I had the leisure to travel across Wyoming on my way (from Florida) to Yellowstone.  That’s no longer an option for me or you because any day you’re traveling across the state is a precious day that will be subtracted from your Yellowstone trip.  

The road network in Yellowstone is laid out in a Figure 8 pattern.  Nearly all of the main attractions – Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring, Norris Geyser Basin, Mammoth Hot Springs, Canyon Village, Yellowstone Grand Canyon and Falls, West Thumb etc. etc. – are located along these main roads and don’t require strenuous hikes.  

However, there are so many of these attractions, and each one is going to require an hour or more of your time to really see, so just get used to the fact that it’s going to take way more time than whatever you originally thought.  For example, Old Faithful erupts every 80 minutes or so.  Suppose you show up when it’s not set to go for another hour?  You can’t go do something else and come back because whatever you do is going to take more than an hour, so you have to just sit it out.  

Most of the other geysers aren’t on a clockwork schedule.  They have signs that tell you the estimated time for the next eruption, but don’t be surprised when it says, “sometime between 3:00 and 6:00 pm.”  It’s not much help.

That’s why you need to allow at least a few days to see all of Yellowstone.  And that’s why you as a registered citizen need to plan around Wyoming’s cruel registry laws to make your Yellowstone vacation memorable (in a good way).

  Wyoming

Hot Springs State Park in Thermopolis

From the 50 State Visitor Guide :

Wyo. Stat. 2021 §§7-19-301 through 7-19-320

AWA Compliant

Registration Triggers and Deadlines:

Three business days for initial registration and updates, including temporary trips and vacations. “Temporary residence” includes hotels, motels, camping areas & parks. §7-19-301(xi)(C).

Visitors must register within 3 business days. §7-19-302(c)(iv).

Residency/Presence and Other Restrictions:

Residence restriction: Adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302” may not reside within 1,000 ft. from schools. §6-2-320.

Presence restrictions:  Adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302” may not enter school grounds if s/he “has reason to believe children … are present and are involved in school activity or when children are present within 30 minutes before or after scheduled school activity” and may not “knowingly loiter on a public way within 1,000 feet from the property line of school grounds.” Various exceptions apply. §6-2-320.

NOTE: Because §6-2-320 says these restrictions apply to adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302”, and visitors in state for less than three business days are not required to register, such visitors would, in theory, not be subject to these restrictions.  However, this theory remains untested.

Duration & updates:

Lifetime; petitions for removal available. §7-19-304.  Updates: §7-19-302.

Trilobite Mass Death at Wyoming Dinosaur Center

Most recent visit: September 2023

Wyoming is yet another one of those states where visitors are required to register within three business days.  Partial days count and the third day triggers your obligation to register, so make the most of the two business days you actually get here.  The silver lining is, if you enter the state on Friday morning and include a weekend, you can be in Wyoming for four days.

Also, Wyoming has no limitations on the number of return visits per month or year.  This is an important consideration for registered visitors because it means that if you leave the state for at least two nights and one day (so that the intervening day can’t be counted against you as a “partial day”) you can return and restart the clock.  You can leave Wyoming late on Monday, spend Tuesday to Thursday somewhere else, then return for another extended weekend in Wyoming.

As noted above, because Wyoming’s law explicitly says that its residency and presence restrictions only apply to adults “who are required to register … pursuant to §7-19-302”, and visitors in state for less than three business days are not required to register, such visitors would, in theory, not be subject to these restrictions.  

However, this theory remains untested and I’m not going to be the one to test it.  My advice is to act like these restrictions apply to you anyway while in Wyoming just in case.  Fortunately all of Wyoming’s restrictions involve schools, which are relatively easy to stay away from unless your son has invited you to attend your granddaughter’s middle school graduation.  Then you’re screwed.

Grand Tetons National Park

Grand Teton National Park

In September 2023 I was in Wyoming for parts of three consecutive days, but because that third day when I was out before 8:30 am was a Saturday I was in compliance with state law no matter how harshly you interpret it.

I entered Wyoming from Idaho early on Day 1 on State Road 22.  My plan was to spend the morning at Grand Teton National Park, which I knew from a 2015 visit wouldn’t be nearly enough time to see it all.  Nevertheless I got many fine photos of the mountains, gawked with a crowd watching a few moose frolicking in the water of the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve, and walked the Lakeshore Nature Trail near the Colter Bay Visitor Center.  

As rushed as my time at Grand Teton was, I was still running behind my planned schedule by the time I was heading east on U.S. 26.  I had thought I could make it to the Wyoming Dinosaur Center and Hot Springs State Park in Thermopolis before they closed for the day but it soon became obvious that wasn’t going to happen, so I stopped in the dumpy little town of Shoshoni where I spent the night at its nice new town RV park.

Wind Canyon - a Wyoming must-see

Wind Canyon

My revised plan to see Thermopolis in the morning turned out to be a much better idea.  On my 2015 trip to Wyoming I had entered Thermopolis from the north, made a quick hit at the Dinosaur Center and zoomed off toward Yellowstone without seeing the Hot Springs – which are amazing.

Furthermore, because I was approaching Thermopolis from the south this time I drove, both coming and going, through Wind Canyon on U.S. 20.  What? I hear you say – Wind Canyon? Never heard of it!  I hadn’t either but it’s absolutely breathtaking!  It’s also contained entirely within Boysen State Park and the Wind River Arapahoe and Shoshone Reservation, so it’s completely protected.

At one of the scenic overlooks on my return trip through the canyon I happened to meet a geologist who was there making videos to use in his university classes.  He couldn’t stop gushing about how important this canyon is, how its exposed rock layers show the geologic history of the region, etc. etc.  And yet this canyon isn’t on anybody’s map.  I mused that the tribes must consider this canyon sacred and would rather keep tourists away but he said Nope!  The Arapahoe and Shoshone tribes were both dragged here from somewhere else, the canyon is not sacred, these two tribes are not exactly bff’s and live uneasily together on the reservation.

To which I say:  Dudes!  If the canyon isn’t sacred, stop bickering and start monetizing it – there is a lot of tourist money to be made here!  Turn most of the scenic pull-offs into “fee areas” and create canyon nature trails to justify the fees.  Run canyon tours like the Navajo do at Antelope Canyon, and be sure to include a side trip to Sacajawea’s grave which is right on your reservation.  The Museum of the American West and the National Bighorn Sheep Center are also nearby.  But don’t stop there – set up a “historic train ride” on the railroad that already goes straight through the canyon.  Be sure to offer tours of the Dinosaur Center and the Hot Springs (for an extra fee of course) while the train is waiting in Thermopolis.

And last but not least, you need to get this set up on your reservation before those greedy white men up in Thermopolis steel this idea.  There is a lot of money to be made here, and a lot of jobs for your people.  But unfortunately I’m quite sure no enrolled tribal member of the Wind River Reservation will ever even read this little travel blog, never mind act on it.

Ayer's Natural Bridge

Anyway, from Wind Canyon I proceeded east on U.S. 20 and I-25, stopping to take in Hell’s Half Acre (which is actually 320 acres) and Ayer’s Natural Bridge on my way to my planned campground in Medicine Bow National Forest.  That campground turned out to be waaaaaaay more remote than it looked on the map, but it was also completely empty so I had the whole place to myself.

The next morning I got an early start and zoomed out of Wyoming.  I made it home to eastern Iowa by that night.